söndag 18 januari 2015

Distortion project Mommehål




Cold but fun day today. tried an old project at mommehål, this is the straight up to Illusion 7C. instead of escaping to the left this one continue the steep aret climbing and tops out on the right side where Kraft tops. This was the original way of trying Illusion but the line was put to sleep since no one figured out the last 4 moves of the line. Technical squeezing and dynamik moves in the top and al is done. Warmer conditions and the block will have one more classic. This one feels to be around 8A/+ :) 

lördag 17 januari 2015

New boulders !


Fa of two new problems today at a new block located near Västrum south of Västervik. The weather have been really wet but today it was dry and windy. The problems will be added to 27crags...

söndag 4 januari 2015

First day out 2015


The weather today was amazing and i managed to get some time outdoors. limited light and bad skin make for a quick hit. I tried a projekt at Lysingsbadet. One move are really hard for me so no send today, but it was so nice to get away from the plastik !!!

söndag 21 december 2014

Jerry o ben`s problem 8A Vo stenarna




This problem get little attention, climbed way back in 2000 by the legend Jerry Moffat and repeted by Ben Moon. The problem broke a bit when i was working it and are a bit harder and with a bit change in the beta. The problem maybe more 8A today and i consider it an area classic and a must do for hardcore climbers that visit Västervik. The gem is sharp so bring your best skin ;)

fredag 19 december 2014

Scorecard blocket Vo stenarna !


A not dry day trying to solve moves on a lower start to this problem. Scorecard was done 10-12 years back and there has always been possible to start a bit lower on it. Today it was not dry enough to make it to the top...

fredag 5 december 2014

Old projekts at Vo !


Last week i had the luck to get some dry weather together with time of from work. Spending the day at Vo stenarna and trying to solv the moves on an unclimbed line close to Dillerium. The climb is a a seven mover on compact red Granit and I'm really confused why this one haven't been tried :)

tisdag 2 december 2014

New problem at Vo today !


Today i did an Fa at Vo stenarna ! Pink trail 7C. The sektor will be up on 27crags as soon as i can login, this is an old part of the area and have some really nice problems.