More than 10 years ago i climbed this problem and today i did it one more time. The line is an variation to Dilerum Vo stenarna and in my opinion much better than the main line of the boulder. This problem dries fast and are close to town. Its been raining like crazy for a month now so i was happy to get out and squeeze some real stone :)
torsdag 30 oktober 2014
Crisp autumn morning gave birth to Golden path 8A+, a problem that are not so classic for the area of Västervik. The start have some cool muscular movement and its not until the top of the boulder the hard begins. Coming from the bottom the slopers in the top are not good and the movement are weird. Happy with this one. grade wise i would say much harder than delirium 8A. I will go with 8A+ and se what repeters think. The sit start is a game of its own with four more hard moves to the boulder, hoping to get more days like this...
måndag 27 oktober 2014
Oreo 8A Sds
Today i had a nice day at Vargklippan, My intetions where to try Golden path Sds projekt and i did. The line climbs from a sittstart and enters a bulge of slopers. Two of the moves are hard and stabby. despite having some good tries the move in the middle remain undone. Speculating on a grade on this would be like 8B/+ and it feels like the hardest i have in the region. Afterwards i tried another good line on the bulge and Oreo 8A Sds was born. Västervik now have one more high quality problem to the list of to does ;)
lördag 18 oktober 2014
Today i managed the first ascent of Jihad 8A/B, have had battle with boulder for 3 days before it went down. This boulder problem is located in one of Västerviks oldest areas VO,stenarna. Its really joyful to find this beauty and finally get it done. In my opinion this problem is one of the best in al of Västervik and a worthy contender for the hardest in the region. Regarding grade i put an 8A/B on it, think this is the way to go... it will be interesting to se what repeters think. When some people manage to send we will se if i am right ;)
lördag 11 oktober 2014
Jeriko Vo Västervik from stefan rasmussen on Vimeo.
A new problem put up yesterday. This one is on the same block as Jihad projekt and are located in the area of VO,stenarna. The problems are on 27crags.com. Regarding grade i would say 7B/C ;)
onsdag 8 oktober 2014
Jihad 8A/B Projekt
Today i decided to have a look at some old stuff. The area is a part of VO stenarna, and are located 100 meter from Smultronstället. confused ? yes i am. The blocks out here are really close and i have suggested that Tomas changes the name of some of hes stuff out here since almost al of the areas are a part of VO stenarna. The new boulder is big and have a lot of cool lines and one really hard projekt. The blocks out here where climbed on by me and Johan Edman some 20 years back in time.
The big surprise was that the problems here are so classy. The quality and the location is beautiful and its close to town. Had some good burns on the projekt and manage to do the crux move one time, decided on the projekt name JIHAD and named the sektor JERUSALEM and it will be a part of VO Stenarna ;)