söndag 1 mars 2015

Project !

Old close to home project. Sorted out the moves and have had a day of trying on this one. The problem have the same start as a 7C/C+ but enters a straight line of small holds and tops on the high part of the boulder. High point of the day was that i managed to get the fot up and starting to move in position. After this it enters a high top out on crimps and slopers. 12 moves of technical climbing and with some air beneath ;)... Happy !!!!

torsdag 26 februari 2015

Done !

Did a new variation of illusion at Mommehål today. The problem climbs the same as Illusion but tops Right. This will get the name Illusion right and i think the grade are around 8A. 

fredag 20 februari 2015

Spring !

Today the projekt were wet so i decided to clean an old line an make a repetition of this. The problem is one of the better easy problems in the area but seldom get any repetitions. Probably the hight scare people of, but the landing is nice and its not even close to wheelchair zone on this one... 

torsdag 12 februari 2015

Snow report !

Mommehål today manage to send the projekt sans top out. The top of the block had to much snow. There will have to be one more day on this one to get it done... ;)

söndag 18 januari 2015

Distortion project Mommehål

Cold but fun day today. tried an old project at mommehål, this is the straight up to Illusion 7C. instead of escaping to the left this one continue the steep aret climbing and tops out on the right side where Kraft tops. This was the original way of trying Illusion but the line was put to sleep since no one figured out the last 4 moves of the line. Technical squeezing and dynamik moves in the top and al is done. Warmer conditions and the block will have one more classic. This one feels to be around 8A/+ :) 

lördag 17 januari 2015

New boulders !

Fa of two new problems today at a new block located near Västrum south of Västervik. The weather have been really wet but today it was dry and windy. The problems will be added to 27crags...